Subs Went Corporate, Hoagies Stayed Local: A Tale of Bread, Pride, and Accent

Published on 17 June 2025 at 23:07

There are few things Americans can agree on. Taxes are annoying, the DMV is hell, and the sandwich, if assembled correctly, is one of humanity’s greatest inventions. But even in this last bastion of unity, the name alone can start a fight. In most parts of the country, you ask for a sub. You might get a funny look if you don’t. But somewhere between the Walt Whitman Bridge and the last Wawa before the Pine Barrens begin, you ask for a hoagie. And if you call it a sub there, someone’s Nonna might appear from behind the counter to hit you with a wooden spoon.


The Hoagie is a sandwich with a chip on its shoulder. It doesn’t travel well. It resents the bland universality of the word "sub" and clings tightly to its small patch of cultural real estate along the mid-Atlantic coast. Its roots are in the shipyards of Philadelphia, specifically a now-defunct stretch of land called Hog Island. During World War I, Hog Island was a place where steel and sweat collided to produce ships for the U.S. Navy. It was also a place where Italian immigrants, clocking long days at the docks, brought their food from home, cold cuts layered between slices of Italian bread, dressed with whatever was available, wrapped in paper, and devoured at break time.

 

The sandwiches were enormous, messy, delicious, and entirely utilitarian. They were fuel. People began calling them "Hog Island sandwiches," which was never going to last because nobody wanted to say that with their mouths full. Locals quickly shortened the term to "hoagies," and, thanks to the musical lilt of the Philadelphia accent and some casual syllabic slurring, "hoagie" was born.

 

There are a few competing origin stories, as is often the case with food that becomes sacred. One version says Al DePalma, a former jazz musician turned sandwich shop owner in the 1930s, coined the term after observing that “you had to be a hog to eat one.” Another theory claims the sandwiches were given away to "on the hoke" dockworkers, folks down on their luck, and that eventually became "hoagie." Yet another says they were just huge sandwiches from Hog Island, which makes the most sense if you're into the whole Occam’s razor thing. Regardless of which version you believe, the Hoagie stuck around and found its home in Philadelphia, South Jersey, and nowhere else.

 

Meanwhile, up in Connecticut, another sandwich was getting its name from a much different source. The “submarine sandwich,” which would eventually become known as the “sub,” took shape in New London, where a submarine base and a man named Benedetto Capaldo crossed paths. Capaldo sold massive Italian sandwiches to sailors and workers alike, and someone eventually noticed that these loaves looked a little like submarines if you squinted. Maybe. The point is, “submarine sandwich” sounded cool. It sounded modern. It sounded like a sandwich a man with an anchor tattoo would eat while polishing a torpedo. And from there, “sub” took off. It spread through Connecticut, Massachusetts, New York, and pretty much the entire rest of the country.

 

Part of the sub's triumph was timing. The 1950s and 1960s were the golden age of suburbanization and fast food, a period when the American diet became whatever could be wrapped in wax paper and sold in a strip mall. Enter Subway, originally named “Pete’s Super Submarines,” was founded in 1965 in Bridgeport, Connecticut. By the time they dropped the rest of the name and just went with “Subway,” the term "sub" was already shorthand in much of the country for any long sandwich that resembled a submarine.

 

Unlike “hoagie,” which requires some cultural buy-in and maybe a birth certificate from Camden County, “sub” was friendly, inoffensive, and easily franchised. You could say it in Oklahoma. You could say it in Oregon. It had no accent, no attitude, no backstory. That made it perfect for menus, drive-thrus, and those weird plastic signs outside gas stations that say “Subs & Lotto.”

 

As the sub rolled westward, gobbling up regional dialects like Pac-Man with a carb addiction, the Hoagie held its ground like a grizzled union shop steward. It didn’t want to be cool. It didn’t want to be national. It wanted to stay in Philly, in Cherry Hill, in little towns with Italian bakeries and pizza places that have been there since the Flyers last won a Cup. The Hoagie was built on crusty-seed rolls that bite back, not those soft, pillowy hoagie-style buns you find in the freezer aisle. It wasn’t afraid of shredded lettuce and vinegar oil that leaked through the wrapper and onto your jeans. It came with provolone, not cheddar. Banana peppers are optional. Mayo frowned upon.

 

New Jersey itself became a borderland in the Sandwich Naming Wars. North Jersey, with its gaze fixed on Manhattan, called it a sub, as if in solidarity with the Yankees and traffic congestion. Central Jersey, assuming you believe it exists, is a linguistic minefield where both terms are used depending on the day, the town, and which highway exit you’re near. But South Jersey? That’s a hoagie country. Down there, it’s not just a sandwich; it’s a civic duty. Wawa sells hoagies, not subs. Schools sell hoagies to fund the marching band’s trip to Hershey Park. Your uncle probably made you your first Hoagie while explaining the correct ratio of meats to condiments and why your cousin is a disgrace for using Miracle Whip.

 

So how did we end up with a nation of sub-eaters and one stubborn corner clutching its hoagies like sacred scrolls? The answer is marketing, accent, and a little bit of stubborn pride. “Sub” is sleek. It is abstract enough to be adaptable. It makes sense visually. “Hoagie” sounds like something your grandpa yells at a goose. And that’s the point. The sub may have won the war, but Hoagie never wanted to fight. It was too busy eating.

 

You can still find other names floating around. New Yorkers say “hero” because everything is bigger and more dramatic there. Bostonians chew through “grinders,” which sound like something you order before a bar fight. New Orleanians swear by the “po’ boy,” which is an entirely different species of sandwich with its folklore involving streetcar workers, remoulade, and an unhealthy amount of fried seafood. But in most of the country, when someone wants a long sandwich with deli meats, they ask for a sub. They may not know why. They may not care. But language, like bread, eventually goes stale unless someone keeps baking it fresh.

 

So next time you’re in Philly, or Gloucester County, or anywhere someone’s Nonna still has a rolling pin on standby, order a hoagie. Eat it slowly. Let the oil drip a little. And remember, the sub may have gone national, but the Hoagie never left home.

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